camcorders

Note that the section on 'Types of Camcorders' is repeated in the edit video section. This is very much aimed at consumers. If you have more specific and detailed questions, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Camcorder Advice - For Consumers

Take a look at the set of features below. Think about what you NEED the camcorder for. Don't be taken in by all the latest technology. You very likely don't need most of it.

1. What do you need the camcorder for? If it's basic, easy, point and shoot, capture those family moments - go for a basic model. For example, the Panasonic GS300 which gives a nice clean image and is easy to use. This is what most people want.

2. Are you in need of something small? Shop around for something small and discreet! They won't necessarily give a great picture but it's up to you!

3. If you want something that is excellent in low light, you'll need to spend more money for a bigger body and better lenses (generally speaking). Most home-use camcorders are about the same in low light. What is low light? Use at night in your home, at night out and about, at events such as wedding receptions etc. At around £700-odd is the Sony HC3 (and HC5 / HC7) which give an above average low light performance for a consumer camcorder. If you want excellent low-light, you'll need the Sony VX2100, PD150 or PD170. These are standard for wedding videographers etc.

4. Is audio control important to you? Get a camcorder that accepts both an external mic (as camcorder in-built audio is poor), and a headphone jack (allowing you to monitor the sound). Look for a camcorder that gives you some audio control (so you can change the levels 'loudness' of the sound). So, for example the Sony HC3 doesn't allow an external mic, so I don't have one of those as a main camera! The replacement range, the Sony HC5 and HC7 do now feature the ability to record via an external mic, so these (esp these HC7) will make excellent camcorders and are recommended.

5. Do you want to be able to take stills shots (like a normal camera)? If so, look for a feature like that

Camcorder Advice - For Prosumers

DV models start from £200 for low-end home cameras and go upwards to around £1000 for high-end consumer camcorders (such as the Canon XM2 - GL2 in the US). Then for £1500-£2000, you're into the prosumer cameras like the Sony DSR-PD170P or Canon XL2, which some TV shows use for out and about shots (or backup cameras). If you're serious about making videos and low-end movies, consider spending more money for these 'prosumer' (a cross between 'professional' and 'consumer') cameras. These will give you many more options, much more manual control and professional features. Around £2000 and more you're into the range of the Panasonic DVX100B, great for shooting 'film-like' movies.

If you feel that HDV is the way you need to go.. The base models at around £750 are the Sony HC3 and the Canon HV10. If you want a hard-drive camcorder, get the Sony HD-UX1. The Sony HDR-FX1 is a choice prosumer HDV camcorder at around £2000. This is being replaced by the Sony FX7, which is a slight downgrade in many areas (but with a 20x zoom, compared to the FX1's 12x zoom - and with lens/light technology called CMOS, unlike the FX1 CCD). If you're into spending around £3000, you'll go the way of the Sony Z1 and V1 HDV camcorder, which the BBC (among others) use and allow, for a percentage of shots. The new Canon XH A1 is also a stunning camera. Like the Z1 and V1, it comes with XLR mic inputs.

General Buying Advice

In buying a basic camcorder there are many things to think about in the specifications:

Type of Camcorder

There are basically 4 kinds of camcorder on the market for consumers - these formats include: HDV, DV, DVD, hard drive and solid state recording media. HDV stands for 'High Definition Video' and is usually recorded onto a DV tape (or a specialist DV tape). HDV can also be recorded onto other media. DV simply stands for 'digital video' and your DV tape is the little tape you insert into your camcorder. A DVD camcorder means you record your shots direct to a DVD inside the camcorder. A hard drive is just like your computer - with the camcorder saving your footage to a hard drive inside the camcorder. The 'solid state' camcorders record your video onto compact media cards such as SD cards. The HDV cams produce a more detailed picture than the DV cams, which produce a 'standard definition' (instead of 'high definition') image.

HDV Camcorders - there are a few of these on the market today. Those worthy of mentioning include the Sony HDR-HC3, HC5 and HC7 (and the now discontinued HDR-HC1 which offers more manual control), and the Canon HV20, HV-30. HDV camcorders can record in 'SD' or in 'HD' (SD = 'standard definition'. HD = 'high definition'). There are 2 ways of getting an HD picture. These are called 720p and 1080i. 720p stands for 720 progressive horizontal lines of picture. 1080i stands for 1080 interlaced horizontal lines. For more on interlacing and progressive, scroll down. You can record and then edit HDV footage on a powerful computer. If you have an Apple Mac, you can use iMovie HD for this (or Final Cut Express / Final Cut Pro). The advantage of this is a great quality image. However, HD takes us a LOT of space and processing power, AND you cannot take full advantage of it without a high capacity DVD player / DVD disc. These are gradually coming onto the market and are called 'Blu-Ray' DVDs and players. (The current DVD format only holds 4.7-9 gigabytes. Blue-Ray holds 25-50 gigabytes). Finally, Europe has not yet decided whether to go with a 1080i or a 720p image for broadcast, although 1080i is likely.

Good news though - HDV camcorders can also record an 'SD' image, as a regular DV camcorder can. Or, they can record in HDV and then 'downsample' or 'down-rez' to an SD image. The camcorder will allow you to do this easily. The advantage of this is that the original source image is higher quality, so you'll likely see a difference between this and the regular 'SD' image shot with a DV camcorder. See the HDV stuff below too.

DV Camcorders - currently, this is the standard definition format that compresses your information the least. Therefore this will produce the highest quality recordings - depending on your camcorder and filming techniques! This is best transferred to your PC / Mac by firewire or USB2 (see below). The tapes are inexpensive and are inserted like a video tape into a video player. MiniDV 'compresses' information to 25Mbps.

DVD Camcorders - these record your footage direct to a DVD which you buy and insert, as you would a DV tape. The downside of these is that they compress more heavily than DV and HDV tape cameras (and at varying qualities), via a format called 'MPEG4'. The other downside is that you can't easily get your recorded material on your DVD onto your computer to play around with. But if you want something very easy that you don't need to edit and can stick in your DVD player, this is the way to go.

Hard Drive / Disk Camcorders - getting more of a foothold. This also mostly compresses to MPEG2. Increasingly, some of these hard drive formats, compress by using MPEG4 which is currently more compressed than MPEG2. An example of this format is AVCHD, increasingly used by Panasonic among others (eg HDC-SD1). This means you can use smart media cards to store your information (such as SD cards - 'smart digital' media cards). This means you can choose the size of your media card. The media card can also be 'read' by your computer by using a media card reader - a separate unit that you can buy for your PC / Mac, that will 'read' or 'import' the information from the card to your computer. These will likely become the main way to record things, as media cards come down in price and up in size.

DVCAM - Some prosumer camcorders can record in this (Sony PD150, PD170, A1). This is like DV tape (although only 40mins in length) and is extremely reliable, with very few 'dropouts' (when the picture goes funny or breaks up).

Size

Camcorders are generally getting much smaller. Do you want a very small one - a compact one, one that fits in your hand? If you're doing more video shots for college, projects or clients - you'll want a slightly larger camcorder that won't be so easily dropped / moved / more bulky and steady.

Resolution

This refers to the picture sharpness and is measured in horizontal lines. The more, the better the quality / the sharper the picture - very generally.

Light sensitivity

This is measured in 'lux'. The smaller (and therefore more sensitive to light) the better. Remember that cameras struggle to film at night or even inside buildings, so if you're intending to do a lot of indoor filming, check this setting very carefully. Look closely at the low light situations - this is really important if you want your images to look 'clean' and not 'grainy' (eg looking like their are lots of bits moving around the screen). You'll do lots of filming indoors (perhaps family memories), so it's ability in low light should be an area of your research.

16:9

This is otherwise known as 'widescreen'. With the advent of widescreen, much of what we watch on television is now in widescreen. If you think you'll want this, look for a camcorder with true widescreen, not one that simply 'letterboxes' the existing image. Letterboxing means that the camcorder simply takes the 4:3 image and inserts black lines top and bottom to make it 'look' widescreen. 16:9 stands for 16 horizontally and 9 vertically. So, an old TV in the UK uses a 4:3 format (so for every 4 horizontally, you go up 3). HOWEVER, increasingly, everything in Europe is shot in 16:9 and televisions (such as your flat screen LCD or plasma is shaped 16:9). So when buying a camcorder, it's fairly important to get one that shoots 16:9. A 'native 16:9' camcorder will produce a much better image than one where you have 'letterboxed' the video.

Anti-Shake

Many camcorders have a function that reduces the amount the video shakes. If you've held a camcorder in your hand for long, you'll know that it can start to shake. An anti-shake / image stabilisation function can be very useful. An optical image stabilization will probably be best. But most of all, get yourself a decent tripod!

Battery (!)

I strongly recommend getting more than one battery. The batteries that come as standard with most camcorders usually only last for around 1 hour. If you are shooting video outside (away from power mains), you'll need a battery that lasts a bit longer! My advice is to always get at least one other battery. The way to tell how long a battery may last is to look at the settings on the battery. For example, my old Panasonic DS27 camcorder's standard battery has a reading of: 7.2V (volts) with 800mAh (capacity). This lasts for around 1 hour. Your battery will almost always be 7.2 colts. The higher the capacity, the higher the length of the battery. So one that says 3300mAh or 5400mAh will last longer. However, this is also dependent on the manufacturer of the batter (copies generally last for less time), and the amount the camcorder sucks the juice! The HDV cams tend to 'eat' (use up) battery power more than the regular DV cams, meaning your battery won't last as long. Using the LCD screen instead of the viewfinder will also eat up battery power on any camcorder. The LCD is the flip out screen on the side (usually) of the camcorder. The 'viewfinder' is at the back and is the thing people squint their eye down!

CCD

Basically the pixels (a grid making up the image). The CCD converts this into electronic info. Generally the bigger the better. But not always! Newer camcorders, especially the Panasonic range, have CCDs (3 ways of getting light into the image). The Sony camcorders now all use a different system called CMOS, which many people believe produces a better quality image, especially in the higher-end camcorders. CMOS is simply a different way of the light getting into the camcorder, and the way the camera processes that information.

Bear in mind that for example the FX7 uses 3 1/4 CMOS sensors, as opposed to the older FX1 which uses 3 1/3 CCD censors. Confused? Yes, I imagine you may be. But the FX1 allows slightly more light in as the lens is one-third sized (1/3), unlike the FX7 which is one-quarter sized (1/4). Most broadcast cams have 1/2.

The DV tape or the media card

When choosing a DV tape, expensive doesn't necessarily mean best. We have used some alleged 'professional' tapes and they haven't performed all that well. Generally, you are safe with Sony and Panasonic tapes. We've used www.aprmedia.com and they will give good help and advice on all DV tapes and other digital media. If your camcorder has an 'LP' mode (long play, 90mins), you will lose quality on the image, as opposed to using the regular short play (60 minute) mode.

Manual Controls

Extremely important for those of us who like to have some greater control over the images or are used to using professional cameras. Things such as manual focus, manual exposure, white balance and ring zoom (see below) are very important.

Manual focus will allow you to focus on a part of your shot (DOF - depth of focus). So, for example if there is a football in the foreground and a goal in the background, you can change focus between the football and the goal. Most times, a camera on automatic will focus on the whole image. Most camcorders have manual focus, although the higher-end ones give you more options and have the focus next to the lens on the ring of the camera. To properly focus in manual mode, here's the trick: zoom in to the subject as close as you can (so, a person standing on a stage), get it into focus and then 'pull back' (zoom out). Then, your subject will be in focus. In 'auto' mode, the camera will focus on the subject automatically, or on the general area. So manual focus is essential in most professional situations (pro cameras also have a back focus, unlike consumer ones).

White balance allows you to set the 'white' in the shot. If you've ever shot video and it doesn't appear to reflect whites accurately (for example it all looks a bit bluey), you need to set the white balance. Most camcorders do this very well. If yours doesn't, a trick is to focus the camcorder on a white bit of paper until the white and the colours normalise. Camcorders handle colour to different qualities.

The final area of manual control is in 'exposure'. Exposure is the amount of light that the camera / lens allows into it. When doing a manual exposure, you should focus in on the brightest part of a person (face - or clothing) and set it so that it doesn't 'wash out' and become 'overexposed'. Basically, make sure it isn't too bright. Manual exposure will help you increase light in dark situations and tone down light when it's very bright.

Night Vision (similar to lux)

So-called night vision - often those flaky green or black and white images via infrared. Some cameras have colour night vision but this is basically via slower shutter speeds. So, you'll need to film still images very slowly! This technology has progressed recently so night mode features are better. Many cameras claim to have a low 'lux' (for example '1 lux') but these produce the green-ish shots you'll commonly see from reporters working at night in Iraq for example. The better camcorders do better in low light, period. For example, the best cameras in low light are the Sony PD170 / Sony VX2100 cams. Your regular camcorder will struggle in low light. You may have to change the 'mode' on the camcorder settings to a night mode, or add what is called 'gain'. Gain is an artificial boost to the light in the camcorder. The better the camcorder, the better the gain will work. Most camcorders don't have this setting.

The Zoom Factor

If you're going to use the zoom function get a camcorder with a good optical zoom, which is the only thing worth considering. Don't worry about so-called 'digital zoom' as digital zoom loses so much quality it's useless. Basically optical zoom will zoom in on the image and maintain image quality whereas digital zoom magnifies the image at the expense of quality.

Look for a camcorder where you can have a smooth zoom and where the control is easily accessible, and doesn't rock the camera too much if you do use it 'live'. Remember that zooming 'live' is a very 'consumer' oriented function. You very rarely see the professionals use a zoom as it looks horrible. But where you do need to zoom in and out, find a camcorder that allows you to do this smoothly and consistently. The higher-end camcorders have a zoom ring around the lens at the front of the camera, as well as the normal 'toggle' control on most camcorders. This is what I use when needed (ie focusing, and in between shots when edited). A 10 to 15 zoom is common on most camcorders.

HDV

This is only found on a few camcorders, although it's very slowly becoming more common. HDV stands for 'High Definition Video'. The HDV cameras offer higher spec than traditional DV in terms of recording video. There are currently few camcorders offering HDV, but Sony do them well.

The one problem of HD is that it takes up a lot or space and will need a very powerful computer to handle. What some people do is shoot video using the HD and then 'down-convert' the footage to DV, before capturing to computer. Many people say HD is the way to go, but won't be that accessible or widely used for a few years yet. There are also some doubts about whether HD images are truly better than SD images.

HDV includes formats known as '720p' and '1080i'. Basically, 720p uses progressive scanning with 720 vertical lines. 1080i uses interlacing with 1,080 lines. HDV uses your DV media - and gets into your computer by the same way (firewire). It has the same level of compression as DV (25Mbps) but is compressed using a higher quality format (called MPEG2). Sound is compressed but to a high specification - 384 Kbps. As a comparison, your iTunes tracks are created at 128Kbps. At the moment, HDV is expensive, but it will become much more common. HDTV uses the same '720p' and '1080i' specifications and compression. See below for more on interlacing and progressive scan.

Remember that the so-called 'HD' cameras that you and I buy for £1-2k are not the same 'HD' cameras that the BBC use. Their format is HD-CAM and their cameras cost £1000s. Their (and other professional camera lenses for DVCAM, BETA SP cams) lenses will cost 5-10 times the amount of your camcorder!

If you have an HDMI connection (on your TV), you can view your HDV images on your HD Ready TV in full glory!

AV in/out

AV stands for 'audio visual'. An AV connection looks like a small round hole in the camcorder. You'll have a lead that comes with most camcorders. This allows the camera to send an image out of the camera to (for example) a television, or a video projector. It simultaneously sends out sound too. So you can hook up one of these leads to a 'scart connector' and plug into the back of your TV. Then, hey presto, see your images on screen.

One other useful thing (if you have AV-in) is that you can use a SCART adaptor out of your video player, then use the camcorder cable to send a video tape (or DVD player) signal into your camcorder. Why do this? Well, it means that you can then transfer a DVD or a VHS to your computer, via your camcorder. You can then use clips, edit, or save an old VHS file to DVD (with the right computer software to create DVDs). You can also do this via a DVD recorder.

DV in/out

Also called i-link by Sony. Mostly known as Firewire (created by Apple) as a method of transferring digital information. If you have a computer that has a firewire port, you can transfer images from your camcorder into your computer (using a firewire cable which you can buy from a shop or the internet). This is done digitally which means the quality is far higher than say recording between 2 video recorders.

The cheaper camcorders in Europe (due to ridiculous EU laws) only have DV out whereas the others have DV in and out (not the case in the US). This means with a cheaper model you won't be able to record from a video onto your camcorder. It also means you won't directly be able to transfer images to your computer, edit them and then record them back onto your camera. Due to EU legislation cameras with DV in/out tend to be £100 more expensive. There are 'widgets' which can enable you to make your camera DV in and out but this will invalidate your warranty. There is also software available - look on the internet.

Remember that many camcorders also have USB2 to transfer data, which is generally just as effective as firewire.

Viewscreen / LCD

This is the little mini screen that pops out the side of the camcorder. Do you want one of these (you probably have no choice until you start spending large amounts). The other point to bear in mind is whether the other viewer at the rear of the camera displays in black and white or colour. A black and white viewfinder displays a better quality image than a colour one (needing only 1 pixel of 'black' or 'white' as opposed to 3 for each colour - meaning you can fit more black and white pixels in - meaning more accuracy on focusing) so allows you to focus much more effectively than colour. This doesn't affect the image captured by the camcorder, which will be colour unless you specify otherwise. Get a nice and bright one, as it can be hard to see the LCD display on a sunny day. Remember that the higher the resolution of the LCD, the better you will be able to use it. A low 'resolution' LCD will not display well if the sun is shining (so you'll struggle to see it and therefore the camera shot).

The Lens

A good lens will make a massive difference and enable different types of shots to be filmed. It's unlikely that just using a home camcorder you'll want to buy any special lenses except if you like the 'fisheye' lens effect. But, if you're serious about getting the most from your camcorder, then you do need a camcorder that accepts lens attachments for both telephoto (close-up) and wide angled shots. Bear in mind that lenses cost a bit of money. The higher the spec on the camcorder, the more that a lens will be important to think about. The lens is responsible for the image coming into the camera, so the better it is, the better the quality. There are other factors as well.

Effects

Most cameras have an array of digital effects and wipes. Effects are things that happen to an image - for example making it like a strobe light effect, or making the image black and white. A wipe is a way of moving between 2 scenes - such as a fade where the image gradually goes black. Use sparingly and consistently.

Start-Up Speed

Some cameras have a fast startup mode, for those moments where you quickly want to capture something. If you think this may happen (it probably will), then try to find a camcorder that has this function.

Preset Settings

Your camera should have a variety of settings (like a camera) that easily allow you to take shots in different weather and situations. For example, there may be a portrait mode, a backlighting mode (for where there is bright light behind the subject, such as if they're inside, against a window), a sunny day mode, a cloudy day, night, sunset mode etc. All these will do is to help you get the best shot no matter where you are or what the weather, or the lighting.

Still Images

Does your camcorder allow you to take still images like a camera? Is this a function you want? If so, go for the highest possible CCD or megapixel rating you can. Basic camcorders have around 1 to 3 CCD and up to 5 megapixel ratings. A specific digital camera will capture a far higher quality of picture. Most camcorders have the ability to take or 'capture' still images - some specifically have a SmartMedia card which enables you to save the digital image separately from the camcorder images.

Microphone

If you are serious about doing decent recordings then you HAVE to have a decent mic. These can be bought from Panasonic, Rode (Videomic), Sennheiser or Sony for example - up to £100-£1000. Without specialist mics, the background noise is very high and the quality of sound becomes very random, dependent on how close the camera is to the people - and how much background noise. Get the mic close to the subject but not so close that the mic can be seen or so the sound distorts (higher end camcorders allow you to adjust sound levels). Quality sound speaks of a quality production.

Some people use clip on mics hidden subtly underneath clothing etc. but beware of noise caused by clothes rubbing against the mic. Others may simply use a normal mic. If you are going to get a mic, the word you're looking for is a 'shotgun' mic. Shotgun mics pick up the sound only from the direction in which they are pointed.

If you are going to edit on a computer: another alternative is to tie mic the actor or subject with the mic connected to a minidisc or MP3 player. This enables high quality recording and you can sync the audio to the picture when editing.

Note that come camcorders are proprietary - accepting mostly only their own brand accessories (for example Sony). So, for example the Sony HDR-HC1 (or HC5, HC7) needs a separate 'mount' for using other brand mics, as well as buying the microphone.

Finally, if you're likely to want some sound outside, you'll need to get a windshield for the mic above and beyond the regular foam protector that comes with some mics. You'll need one of those 'fluffy' looking things for your mic. The name that everyone uses is 'Rycote' - namely the Rycote 'Softies'. But there are others too.

Video Output Options

Features such as composite and/or S-Video will be standard. Output via composite is the lowest quality (all the signals pass down the one cable). S-Video splits the Audio and Video signals so is higher quality. This can be important where you want the output of a camera to be shown live (whether on a TV, or on a big screen in a church - although you can get software that allows you to show your shots 'live' by inputting to the computer via firewire or USB2). Some camcorders now have HDMI - (high definition multimedia interface) that allows you to plug your HDV camcorder direct into your HD LCD TV and view your shots in glorious HD (high definition)!

Media Card

Does your camcorder accept media cards to save your images to? Maybe this is something that is important to you.

Bluetooth

Some cams now have bluetooth which is a way of devices communicating with each other. So your footage can get to your computer without cables, though it may not be very fast or reliable, depending on your computer's bluetooth capabilities. Only usually found on higher end cams. On your mobile phone and computer, bluetooth can be used to transfer addresses and photos etc.

Remote Control

Most camcorders come with a remote control. These are rarely used by most people. However, you may think of uses for this, such as if a camcorder is out of your reach etc. There are other 'remote' functions available on other higher-end cams, for controlling smooth zooms etc.

How do I avoid dropouts?

A 'dropout' is when you're playing back your recording, or capturing to a computer.. Suddenly the picture seems to 'break up' or the computer stops capturing. What's happened? You've experienced (probably) a dropout, a glitch in the tape. Very frustrating, so remember that when filming something important, you need to get lots of 'cutaway' shots (shots of things relevant to the filming that you can insert later if needed).

So what's the solution? Well, there's 3 solutions for you that are camera-related

- Firstly, buy a 'head cleaning' DV tape. This is simply a tape that cleans the 'machine heads' of your camcorder. Put this through your camera around every 20 times you use it. Make sure the brand of cleaning tape is the same, and often it's a good idea to use the same brand of cleaning tape that you use for your normal DV tape.
- Secondly, don't re-use DV tapes that you have recorded onto. Instead, buy more DV tapes if you can and record new.
- Thirdly, always use the same brand of DV tapes. You don't have to pay ££s or $$s for each one though. I have Sony camcorders so use Sony Premium DV tapes, at around £1.60 each in the UK. I stick with these.

Buying Advice

Go check sites for reviews. For more reviews visit www.camcorderinfo.com / www.digitalcamera-hq.com/camcorder / www.dvspot.com / internetcamerasdirect.co.uk / www.cnet.co.uk / www.cnet.com / www.camcorderinfo.com / www.dvxuser.com / www.dv.com / www.dvuser.co.uk / www.sonyhdvinfo.com / www.pana3ccduser.com - among many other sites. Some of these are aimed more at professional users than others.

Some recommendations:

Best consumer HDV - Sony HDR-HC1 (discontinued) / Sony HDR-HC3 / Sony HDR-HC7

Descending order of DV (according to price, highest first) - Canon Optura 600 / Panasonic GS-400 (discontinued but find if you can) / Panasonic GS-250 (discontinued) / Panasonic GS-300 (discontinued) / Pansonic GS-500 (discontinued).

High-end 'prosumer' camera - Canon XM2 (lowest spec'd model) / Sony PD170 / Sony FX1 / Sony FX7.

More professional cameras - Canon XL2 / Panasonic DVX100B / Panasonic HVX200 / Sony Z1 / Canon XH A1 / Canon XH G1 / Sony V1.

Specific suggestions for specific situations

Best bargain manual DV (discontinued) - Panasonic GS-400 (lots of manual control)

Best hard-drive - Sony HD-UX1. Panasonic HDC-SD1 best solid state (SD media).

Cheap HDV - Canon HV30, Canon HV20, Sony HC7 / HC5 / HC3 (descending price and features)

Cheap HDV with manual control - Sony HC1

Best low-light (though only 4:3) - Sony VX2000, Sony VX2100, Sony PD150, Sony PD170

For creating movies with that 'film look' - Panasonic DVX100B

Prosumer HDV - Sony FX7 (3xCMOS chips, 20x zoom, smaller, lighter) or Sony FX1 (3xCCD chips, 12x zoom, wider angle lens / more features overall)

Prosumer HDV with XLR mic input - Sony A1

Semi-pro / pro - Any of Sony Z1 or V1, or Canon XG A1, Canon XH G1, or Panasonic HVX200

High-end camcorder comparison (some aspects only, being updated constantly)

Click here for a table from camcorderinfo.com which is way more complete than the one I had here..