video

SHOOTING VIDEO -

This is a basic look at shooting video - tips, tricks and helps for you in all kinds of areas. This information is also extremely useful for photographers interested in 'framing' a shot.

FRAMING THE SHOT

When you shoot video, get the action in the centre of the lens of the camera, unless going for an effect. Professional camera work has the subject nicely placed in the centre of the camera. Remember that your DV LCD viewfinder doesn't accurately represent either colour or the actual scene your camcorder is shooting (it's usually a bit wider than you view).

It is important when farming a subject, that you do not cut them off at the body joints. So, do not put the subject in the frame chopped off at the waist, at the kees, or at the shoulders. Instead, fix the shot so that the camera is either side of the joints.

There is also the thirds rule, dividing the frame up into thirds and then framing the subject accordingly. Some people suggest setting the eyes at around 3/4 of the way up the frame, as in the example below.

If the subject is facing a certain direction, then set the camera so that there is some 'air space' in the direction which they are facing. So, for example, in the shot below, the subject is facing to the right. Therefore, the subject is framed to the left, with air space to the right (in the direction they are facing). Other times this can work as a nice shot anyway, using the rule we looked at above.

If you are shooting video of people watching a talk, apply the same rule - leaving air space in the direction which they are facing. Make sure there isn't too much 'space' behind the subject you are shooting. If you have several people in shot, try not to cut off too many people's heads!

WHEN SHOOTING VIDEO

Use A Tripod!

You must use a tripod unless it’s a quick, dramatic scene that doesn't need a tripod. The film is shakey without a tripod and looks very amateur-ish. And remember - get a tripod specific to shooting video, not just a cheapo one, if you can afford. Video tripods range from £25 - £350 and there's a reason for that. If you want smooth 'pans' (left to right motion) etc, then get a quality tripod - the range from Velbon, Slik, and especially Manfrotto (by Bogen). I have the Velbon CX-686 which is a big thing but has incredible panning, 2-way fluid heads etc. Awesome, but £50.

Don't move the camera on its stand with the settings too tight. If you're using the cameras in-built mic, you'll pick up creaks from the stand moving (so loosen the camera stand or don't twist it).

Manual Focus

On most camcorders there is a basic automatic focus. This means that the camcorder decides on the focus to make sure images are sharp and 'in focus'. Something that is out of focus is commonly known as being 'soft'.

Remember too that black and white helps you focus in on a subject better than colour. To properly focus in manual mode, zoom the camera in on the furthest object away and bring that into focus. Once that is done, everything will be in focus. You may need to do this more than once during a shoot (as long as your camera isn't 'live' up on a screen!) More professional cameras also have a back focus too. This needs to be brought into focus before the main focus is / can be. But this isn't an issue on domestic camcorders!

Use the manual focus to get different kinds of shots - to focus on the foreground object and then the background object. You can also use the manual focus to cut between 'scenes' by blurring the focus at the start of a scene, then bringing the camera into focus for the next scene - or vice versa. You can only do this with manual focus. Some camcorders have a button to focus when using manual focus. Better cameras have a 'ring' around the lens of the camcorder.

Cutaways

Make sure you film a number of what are called 'cutaways' which is like when a camera cuts to a close up on a person't face or an object. These are useful for editing between shots and for covering gaps you may have left when filming.

Take Varied Shots

Take a varied range of shots - long distance (to set a scene, for example a house filmed from distance), medium shots (for example the house in the frame of the shot) and close-ups (such as the door of the house).

If you have 2 cameras, have one camera taking a long or medium shot, and one taking a medium to close shot.

No Zooming

Please don’t use zoom ever unless you absolutely have to, it’s amateur and looks bad. With DV played back on DVD, the motion looks bad (unlike pro cameras) so try to avoid like the plague.

Mood of the Shot

Think about the mood you want to create - think of style of filming, weather, colour, sound. Remember you can post-edit colour changes, but rendering time may be high (unless you have Final Cut Express / Pro etc) or a decent video card, in which case effects will be rendered in real time.

Takes

You will very likely need to do more than 1 take of each scene - be prepared. In fact it's a good idea especially if the script and action is the same. This way you get more 'takes' to decide which one is best. Or you can set up different camera angles for the same sequences.

Consistency

It’s important to try and film in 1 location all in one go to make sure actors are wearing same or different clothes, that the weather is the same etc. Otherwise your audience may spot your mistakes!

Steady Camera

Hold the camera steady. Don't go jerking it around. If you need to move the camera in shot, think of creative ways of doing this - eg. put the camera on a skateboard and tug the skateboard with a piece of string!

Raw Footgae

Capture raw footage if you're going to edit later. What is 'raw footage'? Well, it's plain and simply the shots you get with your digital camera that without any special effects added from the camera while filming. Very important if you're editing later as it means you have complete control over the captured film and can then do what you want with it. If your film has all kinds of random fades and colour effects, strobe effects etc. it is very difficult to assemble a consistent video later. Best way is to film straight and then add these effects later.

Lighting

Make sure lighting is good. Camcorders - and indeed all cameras - suffer in low-light conditions. You can adjust the level of light going into a camcorder manually, but this will add unwanted 'noise' into the image quality, so don't do this. Best thing is to get the lighting right.

Commonly, a powerful light is shone onto the subject from the front. However, there are times where a bright light (such as the sun) from above, can obscure the subject's eyes and cast unwanted shadows. In these cases, people can introduce a light from underneath the front of the subject - or even use a white board to reflect light. On other occasions, a less powerful light nehind the subject (backlighting) is introduced. This must be a lower level otherwise you'll have the problem of backlighting.

When Shooting Video Live, the Mix

A good tip when shooing live (with say, 2 cameras), is to have one camera doing close-ups and another doing longer shots. When the subject is talking generally, use wider / longer camera shots. When the subject is more personal or speaking more quietly, get closer up shots as they are more powerful.

SOUND AND AUDIO TIPS

Grip the camera firmly if you need to but don’t move your hand - it picks up the noise. Best thing is to leave the camera and keep away from it while running.

You need a decent mic for good sound. Alternatively, film in a quiet place when nothing else is around (not in busy town centres, near buses, classrooms etc.) The camera person and others nearby must not speak at all while filming is in progress.If someone is holding the camera make sure they do not move their hand on the camera. Best put the camera on a stand and leave it set.

Get the subject close to the camera. This way the mic is nearer them and you pick up less background noise. If you are interviewing someone and need to share a mic, you can either set a mic up just out of camera shot (attaching the other end to the camera) - or you can hold a mic (see Point 8 below). If you do choose to hold a mic, each time you ask a question and then pass the mic to the other person and get them to hold it still. Basically, wait a couple seconds til each person is ready to speak. That way, when a person speaks there's not also the muffled rumble of the mic which you can't edit out later.

If you do use a mic, think about compressing the sound so that it does not clip. What is clipping? It's when digital sound gets louder than it should do and distorts (it can also make a 'clipping' sound). Be careful of this. You can use a compressor (digital effects unit to help get a professional sound) or just be careful with mic placement - ie. not too close to the subject. Think about watching documentaries. There's a sound man holding a mic (often with a black muffler on it) and it's out of camera shot and not right in the presenter's face.

Another good tip is to take along a portable minidisc player. Connect a mic to the minidisc player. Then do your filming as we have suggested (and with the mic out of camera shot if necessary). When it comes to be edited, your sound will be of higher quality (digital) and will be so much clearer than audio filmed by a camcorder.

PRACTICAL TIPS

Staring and Ending

Remember to start shooting video 5-10 seconds before and leave camera filimg for 5-10 seconds after you finish recording the key parts of what you need to film. This way you have a bit extra space when it comes to editing and voices, images don't get clipped / cut.

Mark Your Tapes

In a complex project, someone needs a 'take' board or to speak in front of the camera to tell you which scene you're filming and what take it is when you come to edit it later. Make a note of which 'take' you think is best or what bits of each take are best. If you don't, you may not remember which 'take' you want and will end up watching all the footage over to get the right bits. At the minimum, mark up your DV tapes with what you've shot, the day, time, the event etc.

Special Effects

One 'special effects' tip is to move backwards from a subject while zooming in, or move forwards toward a subject while zooming out. Try it and see how it works. You'll notice this kind of 'effect' from movies once you see what it does. Again, be careful in doing this so you keep the camera as steady as possible. And remember point 4 above!

Another 'special effects' tip is to use movement on a camera in-between scenes. Then to fade the scenes in together. What do I mean? Well, say you're filming scenery clips. You may pan left across a river scene. Then separately you pan right across a forest scene. When you edit the 2 scenes together, fade between the 2 scenes. It creates a nice effect. You may decide to 'theme' your short movie with this kind of edit.

Using 2 Cameras

If you are using 2 cameras or indeed filming scenes more than once to get different camera angles, remember this:

a. Make sure your sujects do exactly the same thing and on the same day. Any differences in movement, clothing, weather will be obvious (this is why it's better to have 2 cameras running simultaneously)

b. If you use more than 2 cameras, make sure one camera doesn't pick up the other camera!

c. Remember that if you are filming close-ups on 2 people talking, keep the cameras on the same side of each subject throughout that scene. So, keep camera 2 and 3 where they are. Don't film part of a scene with the cameras where they are in the image below, then cut and swap cameras 2 and 3. It will look very strange to the viewer as they will lose a sense of where one person is in relation to another.

Remember also to have cameras that have the same quality and consistency - don't use one cheap camcorder, and one high-end camcorder. You, and everyone else, will notice the difference and it will be a real problem.

A Script Is Essential

Without a decent script sorted out before filming, your film will drift and not be effective. Get down a basic plot and outline before filming. Here is an example of the first 4 scenes of a drugs misuse video we made..

SCENE 1
Lisa is on cathedral green doing a deal with Arron

SCENE 2
Sharna is at home, wants some drugs so phones Lisa. Dialogue between Lisa and Sharna which ends with arranging to meet in the Guildhall

SCENE 3
Lisa walks off to the Guildhall

SCENE 4
Girls sitting in Guildhall on a wall drinking. Lisa arrives, bit of argument, then Sharna arrives and they do the deal. Lisa and Sharna walk off and start looking in different shop windows.

Plan Your Camera Shots

These need to be much more detailed. Think about transitions (changes) between scenes. How will they be smooth? Relate camera shots to the action. Fast action means fast, quick changing shots. Slow action means longer shots. Mix up close ups and long-shots. Use long shots to set the scene. Here is the first 4 scenes of our video broken down into camera shots to help..

SCENE 1
- Long-shot of Cathedral Green - we can see Arron and Lisa in the background
- Close up to Arron and Lisa doing the deal

SCENE 2
- Sharna at home, talks to herself - I need sorting I’ll phone Lisa
- Phone rings go close up to Lisa and one cut back to show Arron looking around
- As the 2 talk we need to cut between the 2 locations which means doing dialogue twice

SCENE 3
- Cut to see both Lisa and Arron as Lisa walks off to the Guildhall and Arron goes other way
- We see Lisa walk down street
- Then Lisa walking across High Street

SCENE 4
- Shot of girls sitting in Guildhall on a wall drinking so we can also see people
- Lisa walking through Guildhall
- Shot just of the girls mucking around
- Then shot outside Sainsburys filming as Lisa walks down into where little church is
- Lisa arrives, few words with girls, Lisa pacing around - shot with all this in
- Shot as Sharna arrives with Lisa saying where’ve you been?
- Cut to close shot of the deal.
- Long shot of the 2 looking around them. Dialogue.
- Lisa and Sharna walk off and start looking in different shop windows - see both shops
- Cut to girls talking - Sarah runs off to find security or someone

Remember that when cutting from one scene to another, it sometimes helps the viewer to watch the subject go out of shot of the camera, before re-appearing in the next scene (especially where they have changed location, say from the car to a house).